I am frequently asked how I go about finding a guide on the trips I take. A good guide is critical to the work I do. Of course I need someone who speaks fairly good English, but the most important quality I’m looking for is an outgoing personality and good people skills. I have found on a few occasions someone from an indigenous group who has managed to learn English will carry a superior attitude and be a bit arrogant with their own people. It is something I have come to watch out for. I guard against it by arriving on location a few days early so I can meet and go out with him/her on a test run before committing to a 4 to 6 week trip. I have had to change guides on a few occasions because of arrogance or shyness issues. It shows up especially during the interview.
On my last trip to Tibet I was blessed with an excellent guide by the name of Lumbum. A good guide is especially critical in Tibet where everything is so sensitive because of the current political situation. Lumbum is hardworking, very outgoing and cares deeply for his fellow Tibetans and their culture. He knew how to engage with our subjects in a way that allowed them to open up about their personal lives without getting into politically sensitive topics. We happened to end up with a driver with a hot temper. For several weeks I watched with admiration as Lumbum skillfully navigated this difficult personality. If you have any plans to go to Tibet I would highly recommend getting in touch with Lumbum. He will help make your trip fun and meaningful!!

Lumbum (English Tour Guide)
Cell phone No.:+86 (0) 13893956746(Amdo)
Cell phone No :+86 (0) 15089036734(Lhasa)
happyfreeboy2003@gmail.com

I just finished my first Kora (walk around) Mt. Kailash in Western Tibet.  The 52 km trek that crosses one pass at 18,600 ft has served as a spiritual quest for thousands of Buddhists, Hindus, Jains and the pre-Buddhist Bon Po of Tibet.

Serter, 39—Has been a porter on the Kailash since he was 9. He remembers when the glacier to his right reached the valley floor.

The Tibetan Plateau contains in its glaciers the largest amount of frozen water on earth outside of the North and South Poles and as such is known as the ‘Water Tower of Asia’ supplying nearly 1.5 billion people with their water.  Mt. Kailash lies at the center of an area that is key to the drainage systems of the Tibetan Plateau.

Pilgrim on the Kora around Mt. Kailash

I have wanted to get here for years.  It has always been a long difficult several day journey over bone rattling roads to reach Kailash.  The road from Lhasa is now partially paved and will be fully paved within a year.  There is also an Airport that just opened this year about 100 miles from the mountain.  The runway at 14,600 feet makes it the highest commercial airport in the world.  Certainly this new access will increase the number of people coming to Mt. Kailash in the future.

Tsering Omo, 45—Pilgrim at the pass

One of the things that amazed me as I traveled through what was formally Kham and Amdo on the Tibetan Plateau was the amount of new construction at many of the Tibetan Monasteries.   It was not only the amount of new construction but the size and quality of the new monasteries and prayer halls that were being built.  I saw multimillion dollar construction projects that left me wondering where the money was coming from.

One very elaborate Temple that was being built in a very remote area in Qinghai Provence was literally out in the middle of nowhere.   I was told that the funding came from a wealthy individual in Hong Kong.

In another remote area of Sichuan Provence the world’s largest Stupa (Buddhist Shrine) was being built.   Half completed with a construction crane on top it looked like a ‘Stupa condominium’.   I was told it was being financed by ‘someone from the West’.

I was excited to see this resurgence of energy in the Tibetan monastic community.  However, I met a Tibetan documentary filmmaker who had a different perspective.  He felt all this new money coming from the outside was interfering with the historic relationship the monks and monasteries had with the local villages that had historically supported them.  He said, ‘It’s just human nature.  If you are getting millions of dollars donated are you still willing to bless someone’s children or their house for a few sacks of Tsampa {barley flour}?

The Rarámuri are best known for their tradition of long distance running up and down the steep canyon trails.  Some of their races, which they run in sandals or barefoot, last for days.  In fact the Rarámuri are hosting their annual Ultra Marathon on March 7th.  I was told that they hunt deer by chasing the animal until it drops from exhaustion.

The One HEART team was welcomed by the Rarámuri with one of their special ritual Yumaré fiestas which lasted all night.  Two goats were sacrificed and the women brought ceramic jars filled with tesguino (corn-based beer) that is consumed in many Rarámuri rituals.

Around 4 am I managed to get an hour of sleep before it began to get light.  Although the women did drink a little it was the men who really let their hair down. 

The music and dancing went on all night and as dawn broke it was mainly the women who were left standing. 

I have found that preconceived story lines almost always take an unexpected turn and this one certainly has.  If you have seen previous post on One HEART you are aware that I started working with them in Tibet.  This documentary which I originally thought would portray a successful approach to maternal mortality on the Tibetan Plateau now looks like it will be about the political and cultural hurdles one faces when trying to address issues like maternal and infant mortality in the developing world.  The Mexican Government is very receptive to One HEART’s work, however, the drug wars in Northern Mexico and cultural issues with the Rarámuri may pose special problems as One HEART tries to establish its program.  For cross-cultural global health programs it’s critical to ensure that there is compatibility between the values of the program and the recipient culture.  I hope to document the process One HEART goes through to become aware of and bridge the Rarámuri cultural beliefs and values with our western medical traditions.  I will continue to post more about the One HEART story as it unfolds.

When I approach someone I am thinking and believe that I am about to give them something. For one I’m going to complement them by letting them know that I believe they are unique and interesting to me. I also know that I am going to give them a unique experience. It isn’t every day that someone comes up to you and asks if they can photograph you. You don’t even have to be able to speak to the person. If you are thinking it they will be able to read it in your body language. They can read if you hope to make their day or if you are just trying to get something out of them. 

When I enter a tribe or village for the first time I almost always start by interacting with the kids. Kids are the most open and curious about new experiences. I take out my photographic equipment and begin taking photos of them and then giving them photos of themselves.  It is my little magic show.  Many times these kids ask to become my production crew. Before digital cameras I shot Polaroids, today I show them the LCD on the back of my camera and also carry a small battery operated HP digital printer so I can hand out prints. During my stay in the village these prints and Polaroid’s make it to their parent’s huts and soon I’m being invited into their homes and being asked to take photos of everyone. At this point the problem becomes how to take photos of everyone. I only carry a finite amount of Polaroids and ink cartridges! I find myself doing many group photos.

Even though I first approach people without an interpreter so they can get a sense of me through my body language, I always have someone available that can serve as a translator. I want to be able to tell them what I intend to do with the photos. In my case for exhibitions and books relating to an issue that their group is dealing with (human rights violations, poverty or environmental degradation).

I see many tourists taking photos of people in markets and villages without any meaningful interaction with the people they are photographing and many times getting a negative reaction. Just think how you would like it if someone came into your backyard and started taking pictures of you and your family without making a connection with you. 

Photography can be a great ice breaker that will allow you to have a wonderful cross cultural experience.